History
Hungary is one of Europe’s oldest wine-producing nations. After centuries of challenges, its wines—like the famed Tokaji Aszú—are making a global comeback, reclaiming their place among the world’s best.
Hungary is one of Europe’s oldest wine-producing countries, with a history spanning over two millennia. Despite ups and downs, Hungarian wines were once world-renowned and enjoyed by figures like Napoleon and Louis XIV. After challenges in the 20th century, Hungary’s wine industry is experiencing a revival, regaining global recognition for its unique character and quality.
The Dawn of Hungarian Viticulture
Before the Romans arrived, the Celts were already cultivating vines in the region that is now Hungary. Their early grape-growing efforts laid the groundwork for Hungary's future wine traditions.
Roman Influence in Pannonia
When the Romans conquered Pannonia, they brought advanced viticultural techniques and introduced new grape varieties. This expansion established Hungary as a key wine-producing region in the Roman Empire, with areas like Lake Balaton becoming viticultural hubs.
Monasteries, Nobles, and Tokaj’s Early Fame
Hungary’s wine culture boomed in the Middle Ages with monasteries refining winemaking techniques and nobility expanding vineyards. Wine became a major economic force, with regions like Tokaj already gaining a reputation for high-quality wines by the 15th century. Hungarian wines were well on their way to fame, setting the stage for future glory.
Turkish Occupation and the Birth of Bikavér
Even during the Ottoman occupation, Hungarian wine didn’t lose its spark. In fact, it’s during this time that Bikavér (aka Bull’s Blood) was born. Legend has it that the defenders of Eger fortified themselves with this bold red wine during a siege in 1552, leaving their Turkish enemies convinced that they’d gained strength from drinking bull’s blood.
The Sweet Success of Tokaj
While much of Hungary was struggling due to ongoing wars and the division of the country between the Ottoman Empire and Habsburg Austria, Tokaj thrived. Its vineyards remained largely untouched, allowing winemakers to perfect Tokaji Aszú, the world’s first botrytized wine made from late-harvest grapes affected by noble rot. By 1571, Tokaji Aszú was on the map, and Louis XIV famously declared it the “Wine of Kings, King of Wines,” securing its place in Europe’s royal courts.
Austria’s Influence and Tokaj’s Classification
With the Ottoman Empire defeated, Hungary fell under Austrian rule in 1699. New grape varieties like Blauer Portugieser arrived, but Tokaj wasn’t done making history. In 1730, Tokaj established the world’s first vineyard classification system, based on soil and the magic of noble rot—setting the standard long before Bordeaux.
Phylloxera Crisis and Grape Shift
In 1882, Hungary’s vineyards were devastated by the phylloxera epidemic which led to the destruction of traditional field blends, particularly in regions like Eger and Tokaj. To recover, many winemakers shifted to monocultures, with varieties like Kékfrankos and Bordeaux reds becoming more common in red wine districts.
New International Varieties
As Hungary recovered from phylloxera, international varieties like Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, and the easier-to-grow Zweigelt entered the scene, thriving alongside Hungary’s indigenous varieties.
The Impact of the World Wars
Both World War I and World War II severely disrupted Hungary’s wine industry. Vineyards were neglected and economic hardships led to a temporary decline in wine production.
The Socialist Era and State-Run Wineries
Under Communist rule, Hungary’s wine industry shifted to state-run cooperatives, prioritizing quantity over quality. Large-scale production catered to Soviet demands, but the focus on mass production led to lower-quality wines.
The Post-Communist Revival
After the fall of Communism, Hungary’s wine industry experienced a revival. Private ownership returned and foreign investment poured in, sparking the rise of boutique wineries. Hungary rediscovered its native grapes like Furmint and Kékfrankos, with quality taking center stage again.
Tokaj’s UNESCO Recognition
In 2002, the Tokaj Wine Region was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site, acknowledging its historical, cultural, and environmental significance. This solidified Tokaj’s position as one of the world’s most prestigious wine regions.
Hungary Today
As a member of the EU, Hungary boasts 22 distinct wine regions, each showcasing its unique terroir. After years of challenges, Hungarian wines are finally reclaiming their status as some of the finest in the world. This renewed reputation is attracting visitors from around the world and a thriving wine tourism sector.