Winemaking

What makes Eger’s terroir unique, and how do its soils and climate shape the wines?

"Eger is situated on the 47.9 northern latitude, on the same level as Chablis. For quite a long time, we were called the Hungarian Burgundy. Nowadays, the climate is a bit warmer and dryer, but we are still a cool-climate wine region. The main soil type is volcanic, particularly rhyolitic tuff formed from volcanic eruptions during the Miocene. This gives our wines a character of minerality and long-lastingness.

A fun fact about Eger is the city’s unique 200 km labyrinth of cellar systems underground, known as the ‘city under the city.’ These cellars were excavated from the tuff stone during the Middle Ages by the peasants of Eger."

What are Eger’s most distinctive grape varieties, particularly Kadarka and Kékfrankos, and why do they thrive here?

"Historically, Kadarka was the ancient and first red variety of the region, arriving here in the 1600s. Eger’s winemaking history dates back to AD 1000, and the first official Egri Bikavér (Bull’s Blood) was made using different clones of Kadarka. However, it was only produced in extraordinary vintages.

Over time, winemakers started using more reliable varieties for Bikavér. Kékfrankos became popular from the 1950s because it consistently delivers good quality and vibrant color, which Kadarka often struggles with. Today, Kékfrankos is the main component of Egri Bikavér, while Kadarka contributes less than 5% to the blend."

What do you do in the vineyard and winery for your Egri Bikavér, and what makes it unique?

"Eger is a multi-varietal wine region with 65 grape varieties, historically known for blending. Egri Bikavér began as a regional blend and has evolved into much more than a tourist trademark. Today, we produce single-vineyard Bikavérs by blending grapes grown close to each other. These varieties are not co-harvested; instead, we blend them after fermentation, and they age together.

We’ve increased the proportion of Kékfrankos in the blend to enhance its fruity and mineral character while reducing oak aging to a maximum of 12 months. This approach results in a fresher, more modern style. Our wines are also unfined and unfiltered, preserving their authenticity and character."

How does Villány’s terroir influence its wines? Why is it so well-suited to Cabernet Franc compared to other regions?

"Terroir, climate, and soil of Villány

Villány is Hungary’s southern-most and warmest wine region. This is why Bordeaux varietals, which are rare in Hungary, thrive here in the ‘sub-Mediterranean’ warmth. The soil, predominantly limestone with some loess and clay, plays a crucial role. Limestone helps retain vibrant acidity in our wines, even when the fruit achieves elevated ripeness and body due to the warm climate.

The climate within Villány also varies. Vineyards closer to the town of Villány are warmer, while the western Siklós subregion is noticeably cooler, sometimes leading to a two-week difference in harvest times for the same variety. In warmer years, Siklós often produces more balanced wines than the traditional Villány vineyards.

Why Cabernet Franc excels in Villány

Cabernet Franc has always struggled to find the perfect climate: it’s either too cold, leading to green, vegetal flavors, or too warm, resulting in overly lush and blunt wines. Here in Villány, it’s found its sweet spot—warm enough to produce a full-bodied, classic wine but without the overwhelming green bell pepper notes. Instead, it delivers lifted, floral aromas of mint, eucalyptus, and violets, with vibrant freshness.

Michael Broadbent MW famously described Villány as the home for Cabernet Franc in Decanter magazine, which encouraged local winemakers to embrace it as the region’s flagship variety. Its elegance and complexity here set it apart from other regions globally.

Winemaking approach for Bordeaux varieties

At Sauska, we gently de-stem and lightly crush the grapes, followed by a one-week pre-fermentative cold maceration to enhance fruity aromas. Alcoholic fermentation occurs at a low 24–26°C to preserve freshness. Post-fermentative maceration on the skins lasts up to two weeks, depending on the vintage, to add complexity. The wine is aged for 15 months in French oak barrels, followed by two years of bottle aging before release. This process ensures a balanced Cabernet Franc with lifted aromatics, ripe fruit, and Villány’s trademark refreshing acidity."

What makes Tokaj’s terroir so unique? How does the process of making Tokaji Aszú 5 puttonyos shape its flavors and aromas?

"Unique terroir of Tokaj

Tokaj’s terroir is unmatched in the world, thanks to its volcanic soils, diverse topography, and unique microclimate. The Zemplén Hills shield south-facing slopes from cold winds, while the Bodrog and Tisza rivers create the humid autumn conditions necessary for noble rot (Botrytis cinerea) to thrive. Morning mists foster botrytis, while sunny afternoons dry the dew, concentrating the grapes’ sugars and flavors.

The soils, formed from volcanic bedrock covered by loess and brown forest clay, are rich in minerals. This combination of volcanic influence, diverse terroirs, and climatic factors shapes the exceptional quality of Tokaji wines.

Winemaking for Tokaji Aszú 5 puttonyos

Tokaji Aszú production begins with meticulous handpicking of botrytized berries in multiple passes through the vineyard. These aszú berries are macerated with base wine to extract their concentrated sugars and flavors. After pressing, the wine is aged in Hungarian oak barrels, where it develops its signature complexity.

The wine’s natural high acidity is crucial for balancing its sweetness, ensuring elegance and drinkability despite its richness. This balance, combined with volcanic minerality, defines the character of Tokaji Aszú 5 puttonyos.

Taste profile of Tokaji Aszú 5 puttonyos

Expect an intense nose of grapefruit, apricot, and spice with elegant floral notes. The palate is rich and full-flavored, with botrytis-induced crisp acidity that leads to a long, opulent finish. The volcanic soils contribute a mineral backbone, making this wine uniquely expressive of its terroir."